Tuesday 3 May 2011

Siurana, Spain



Mum, dad and I flew to Reus in Spain and then stayed near the sea before driving to the campsite in Siurana on Friday. We had a cabin on the campsite next to the Bosi family. We all said it was like a 'shed from B&Q' with a small kitchen and some beds. On Saturday morning we all met at the cafe in the campsite and then walked to the crag. McGeek started us on a 4+ and 5 top rope to get used to the rock. It was really hot and the rock was hot too. On Sunday Kirsten and Jodie and Eilidh arrived and we had Lynne Malcom coaching us and then later Tom Bolger for one climb. I was also taken away by Neil to climb a 6a+, I top roped it first then lead it.
Over the next few days, we all climbed lots of different routes and grades and had a great time. Neil showed us how to work on a route on a top route and then lead it. At the end of the week Neil wanted me to work on redpointing a 7a. I tried it on top rope first of all and then on lead.

I wrote a descriptive essay for my teachers which I have copied below

" Els hi agrada?


I first saw the Catalonian Mountains from the aeroplane as we started our descent into Spain. From my seat I could see loads and loads of high mountains and I knew I would be climbing some of them over the next week.

During the next few days I climbed all sort of rocks starting on quite easy routes to more difficult routes as the days progressed. But I knew that before the end of the week I would have to climb the most difficult of all, a really scary 7a. The one I decided to climb was called ‘Els hi Agarada’.

I knew the climb would be difficult because all the holds are very small or ‘crimpy’. I pulled my harness on as tightly as I could and made sure I had enough chalk in my chalk bag.
Eagerly, I squeezed into my shoes and tied the laces, tied myself into the rope and buddy checked my climbing coach, Neil. He told me to go through the moves in my head before attempting the climb. I was red pointing the route, so I had top roped the climb earlier to try all the moves and so all I had to do was put it all together and keep myself focussed. Red-pointing is when you have already tried the route and then completed it once you know the moves.

Before I started I felt quite nervous because I really wanted to complete the route and if I made one small mistake I would have to start again.

The start was on sloping jugs. Jugs are normally good, deep holds but when they are sloping they are always harder to hold. I accurately crossed through with my chalky hands, holding on precariously with my right hand and carefully crossing over with my left. I felt very positive about the climb at this stage, I had to concentrate all the way and not get the complicated hand sequence wrong. I wanted to climb it well and make all the moves as smoothly as I could and not just anxiously scramble to the top. Cautiously I reached up to a sharp undercut ledge and then eagerly clipped the rope into the quickdraw, and made a powerful cross over with my right arm to a horrible, very negative crimp, which was very difficult to hold. Slowly I moved across a spiky ledge, which was easy to rest on, then I nervously clipped the second quickdraw in place and instantly felt much more secure. I then attentively moved my foot onto as high footholds as I could before making an abrupt move with my left hand to a sharp two-finger pocket. I continued to work my feet higher and changed the position of my sore hand into an undercut, and then I tentatively moved my feet onto the spiky ledge. I still felt very strong at this point but I needed to move quickly because the rock was very hot and I needed to get to my resting position before the crux. I knew I would get tired soon and I was aware I was using a lot of energy at this point of the climb. Moving to some sharp crimps, I clipped the rope through the third quickdraw. I moved both feet high frantically and then my left foot out to balance me and then I desperately slapped my left hand around the side pull to catch a small crimp. By the time I reached the start of the crux I felt tired, my muscles in my arms were beginning to ache.

The crux; I had worked the moves out for this section of the climb but I had not completed it in one go before so I was feeling quite nervous. I had to psyche myself up for the next few moves and not hesitate. I quickly moved right to a two fingered, edgy crimp, which I had to pull up on sharply to catch a pebbly side pull, and carefully slid my right foot onto a small edge, which was about knee height. I then moved to two very small crimps, which were very sore to hold. Apprehensively I slapped for a sloper, a hold that you have to rely on the friction between your hand and the rock, and I hoped it had enough grip on it for me to be able to hold on to. I caught it horridly and it held long enough for me to pop for the final move of the crux. Eagerly, I jumped for the colossal jug, like a starved lion viciously pouncing for its weak prey.

By using the edgy jug I could rest enough to complete the climb.
I felt a sense of relief mixed with achievement at this point but I had to remain focused and keep calm to complete the climb.
My body seemed to remember the moves for the top section of the climb, my mind went blank and when I clipped in to the last clip I felt fantastic. My first 7a outside which I had worked hard to red-point."

This is the video of the climb.


2 comments:

  1. AnonymousJune 04, 2011

    awesome post Gabbie! Making me wish I was back in Siuranna!
    geek

    ReplyDelete
  2. Geek you really need to learn how to spell! Well done gabs

    ReplyDelete