Bowden Doors

I spent a couple of days in Oban at a friend’s caravan. The weather was brilliant and we spent most of our time on a jet bike going up and down the loch. When we came back to Edinburgh the weather was still excellent but I had to train for the British Open Competition the following week and so it was back to Ratho, indoors on the Saturday.

Mcofs had organised an outdoor bouldering day on the Sunday as part of their Real Rocks sessions. And we went off to Bowden Hill in Northumberland. Luckily I had been given a crash mat and the Northumberland bouldering book for my birthday two weeks before. I was really looking forward to going because I hadn’t been bouldering outside since I was in Font over a year ago and I loved it then.

Buz (Neil Busby) was leading the session so we picked him up in Edinburgh and took him to Northumberland.

We met everyone in the car park at Morrisons in Berwick and then followed each other to Bowden Hill. Eilidh Vass Payne, Keira Farmer and the Bosi brothers, Alexander and William were in the group. We strapped our crash mats to our backs and only had to walk 5 minutes to the boulders. It was a long 5 minutes. Because it was windy the crash mats were like sails and we bobbed and weaved through the grass.

Buzz talked to us about safety and placing the crash mats properly and spotting our friends. We then warmed up on some easy ones on boulder three to get used to the rock.

We then moved to boulder 2, ‘Super Slab, 4+’, it was quite tricky at first but when we had topped it Buzz then did it one handed and Eilidh did too and after a couple of tries I managed it.

Before lunch we walked back towards the cars and then past them to another area. We stopped at the sheep pen and David (Keira’s dad) put on his funky BBQ and we continued to boulder until the sausages were ready. By now, it was really hot and sunny so the rock was quite slippery. We did “Paw Prints”, “Dreaming of Heuco” and moved round the corner to try “Smooth Wall One” and “Two,” the “South Arete”, “Upper Traverse” and “Reverse Traverse”. Bouldering outdoors again reminded me of how much fun it is to find your footholds and also handholds. They are not as obvious as indoors where they are colour coded. I also enjoy climbing over the top and standing on the boulders which you can’t do when you are indoors.
As we climbed into the late afternoon, we also tried “Entrebaillement” , “Scooped Wall “and “Sandy Rib”.

At the end of the day Buzz suggested we try an 8a called ‘The Crack and he challenged us by saying he would give anyone who flashed it … £1,000! William was really motivated by the money and struggled desperately to get to the top. Buzz looked really nervous for a while, but we all looked at it and had a go but nobody could get much further than the first move. I think Buzz was relieved. At around 4.30pm when we packed up to go home the sun was still shining and everybody agreed that it had been a great day. Buzz and I fell asleep in the car because it was so warm and had been a tiring day… so my dad didn’t stop for chips.

YCS Final Wolverhamption

Alasdair, Kirsten, mum , dad and I left on Friday afternoon. Kirsten and I had brought blankets to make tents in the back of the car and lots of climbing dvd’s.
We ate pasta for tea and went to bed early.
The next morning we registered at 8.30 at Wolf Mountain. It was quite an interesting wall but there were so many people!! It was all a bit confusing and nobody seemed to know what was happening. We were split into our groups and so I didn’t have Kirsten or Eilidh in my group but I did have Emily and Rebecca from Scotland North. We were to do our first two boulders and then swap with the other group and do our first two routes. We hadn’t done a big warm up which we would normally do, so the lady looking after us just said to put on our climbing shoes and traverse along the wall. I was a bit anxious because I normally do a much longer warm up and the first boulder problem didn’t look that easy. Then I realised everybody was going back through to the main area to do a warm up, I could hardly get through because of all the parents, so I decided to stay and warm up by myself. I managed the first boulder but the second one was hard. There was a really difficult move at the very start of the problem and only a couple of girls got past it out of the whole group. I was really disappointed but I was finding it really hard to focus because it was raining and there was nowhere to sit or keep warm before climbing. I then went on to my first route which I topped, but the second route was more difficult. I came off at 88 points although I felt I should have had 89 because I touched the hold. When I came down the judge asked if I had touched the hold but when I said yes she then said she hadn’t seen me and so couldn’t give me the point. I was disappointed and when I looked at mums video it was obvious I had touched the hold, but the judges cannot look at parents videos for evidence. I just wished the judge had moved to a position where she could see.
We were then shown our last boulder problem. I was first up but I knew I had three goes. I was really pleased with my first attempt and it wasn’t until their second goes that two of the girls went beyond where I had got to. The last route looked really hard technically. I was in a good position because I was climbing last, I could watch all the other girls climb, the only thing was that it was very off putting when everybody kept falling off . Then the girl who won topped it, which was a brilliant climb. I was really psyched to climb well, but I came off because I just couldn’t hold onto a tricky move onto a not very good hold. I was disappointed but overall came in 12th position, and all the girls ahead of me were a year older. I think I could have climbed better but overall I climbed okay. We went out with lots of people for dinner and then played at the hotel until about 11 o’clock. We drove home the next day.

Imst Youth Color Comp, Austria 2011

I really wanted to go to Imst again this year because I had enjoyed the competition last year. The wall is great to climb on and the new outside wall was finished, which was only just beginning to be built the previous year. I had moved up an age category, so I was leading instead of top roping which was more exciting.
I knew I had 43 other girls born in 99 and 98 in my category, and from around 14 different countries. I was looking forward to meeting up with an Austrian friend, Elena, I had made last year, who said ‘luck good ‘ before every time I climbed.
I like the way the competition is organised. They have the timetable on the wall, so that you know when each demonstration of a route will happen, and also when you can have lunch so that you can relax a bit when you are not climbing. The running order also stays the same for the first day and so you can watch the climbers and then warm up when you have around five climbers in front of you still to go, and then tie in ready to climb. I topped my first two climbs but as I was clipping the last bolt the rope slipped out and I took a really big fall. The belayer had let out a lot of slack and so I fell around 15 m. I got a bit of a fright and felt a bit shaky afterwards. I then didn’t climb the next two routes very well, they were very hard but I should have done better on my third route. The last two climbs on the Saturday I felt a bit stronger but still wished I had done better.
I went for a swim with Angus and my mum and his dad to stretch our muscles and then went for something to eat and another early night.
The next morning we did another warm up with Ian Dun and then I did my own warm up as well because I had a while to wait for my first climb. We were climbing our last three routes at the same time. Carmel who is in the British team was in the same category as me, climbed the green route first and then talked me through it. I climbed the yellow and told her all about it. I felt I climbed the yellow reasonably well, but I still wanted to top it, it was a 7C+!!, the green was a 7b and my final route was a 7c+. I was timed out on my last 2 routes, I was just over half way on both of them. We were only given 4 minutes for each route. It would have been good to have known this before we went to Imst because I had no idea how to work out what four minutes of climbing felt like.
Overall I came in 30th place, so I was a bit disappointed, I was hoping to be in the top 20, but my second two routes on the Saturday let me down. I have decided I need to work on climbing faster, getting over ledges and my overall strength. Imst always seems to fire me up to train harder and do better next year. I have another year in this category so roll on 2012. It would be great if more Scottish climbers could go to this comp.

Scottish Finals

Scottish Finals
The top 5 climbers in each category go into the Scottish Finals form Scotland south and North, 10 climbers. We had three routes and three boulders. The boulders weren’t very good, but the second two routes were. The second route I climbed quite well and was lying in about 3rd position but I had a good climb on the third route and came out on top at the end of the qualifiers. The top three then had to go into isolation and climb a final route. We had to wait for 5 and a half hours. The final climb was a blue on the old comp wall. We had 2 minutes to read the route before going back into isolation. I came out last and I found the climb hard but I didn’t see a small hold out to my left and so lost by couple of points. I was really disappointed but was pleased I had lost to my friend Kirsten and I was pleased for her.

YCS Round 3 Glasgow

Last Saturday was the last round of the YCS held in Glasow. The routes were great again, I really enjoyed the different boulder problems especially the last one. I came in second place by one point and was really pleased to get into the finals of the British and Scottish comps.
My last route

Siurana, Spain

Mum, dad and I flew to Reus in Spain and then stayed near the sea before driving to the campsite in Siurana on Friday. We had a cabin on the campsite next to the Bosi family. We all said it was like a 'shed from B&Q' with a small kitchen and some beds. On Saturday morning we all met at the cafe in the campsite and then walked to the crag. McGeek started us on a 4+ and 5 top rope to get used to the rock. It was really hot and the rock was hot too. On Sunday Kirsten and Jodie and Eilidh arrived and we had Lynne Malcom coaching us and then later Tom Bolger for one climb. I was also taken away by Neil to climb a 6a+, I top roped it first then lead it.
Over the next few days, we all climbed lots of different routes and grades and had a great time. Neil showed us how to work on a route on a top route and then lead it. At the end of the week Neil wanted me to work on redpointing a 7a. I tried it on top rope first of all and then on lead.

I wrote a descriptive essay for my teachers which I have copied below

" Els hi agrada?


I first saw the Catalonian Mountains from the aeroplane as we started our descent into Spain. From my seat I could see loads and loads of high mountains and I knew I would be climbing some of them over the next week.

During the next few days I climbed all sort of rocks starting on quite easy routes to more difficult routes as the days progressed. But I knew that before the end of the week I would have to climb the most difficult of all, a really scary 7a. The one I decided to climb was called ‘Els hi Agarada’.

I knew the climb would be difficult because all the holds are very small or ‘crimpy’. I pulled my harness on as tightly as I could and made sure I had enough chalk in my chalk bag.
Eagerly, I squeezed into my shoes and tied the laces, tied myself into the rope and buddy checked my climbing coach, Neil. He told me to go through the moves in my head before attempting the climb. I was red pointing the route, so I had top roped the climb earlier to try all the moves and so all I had to do was put it all together and keep myself focussed. Red-pointing is when you have already tried the route and then completed it once you know the moves.

Before I started I felt quite nervous because I really wanted to complete the route and if I made one small mistake I would have to start again.

The start was on sloping jugs. Jugs are normally good, deep holds but when they are sloping they are always harder to hold. I accurately crossed through with my chalky hands, holding on precariously with my right hand and carefully crossing over with my left. I felt very positive about the climb at this stage, I had to concentrate all the way and not get the complicated hand sequence wrong. I wanted to climb it well and make all the moves as smoothly as I could and not just anxiously scramble to the top. Cautiously I reached up to a sharp undercut ledge and then eagerly clipped the rope into the quickdraw, and made a powerful cross over with my right arm to a horrible, very negative crimp, which was very difficult to hold. Slowly I moved across a spiky ledge, which was easy to rest on, then I nervously clipped the second quickdraw in place and instantly felt much more secure. I then attentively moved my foot onto as high footholds as I could before making an abrupt move with my left hand to a sharp two-finger pocket. I continued to work my feet higher and changed the position of my sore hand into an undercut, and then I tentatively moved my feet onto the spiky ledge. I still felt very strong at this point but I needed to move quickly because the rock was very hot and I needed to get to my resting position before the crux. I knew I would get tired soon and I was aware I was using a lot of energy at this point of the climb. Moving to some sharp crimps, I clipped the rope through the third quickdraw. I moved both feet high frantically and then my left foot out to balance me and then I desperately slapped my left hand around the side pull to catch a small crimp. By the time I reached the start of the crux I felt tired, my muscles in my arms were beginning to ache.

The crux; I had worked the moves out for this section of the climb but I had not completed it in one go before so I was feeling quite nervous. I had to psyche myself up for the next few moves and not hesitate. I quickly moved right to a two fingered, edgy crimp, which I had to pull up on sharply to catch a pebbly side pull, and carefully slid my right foot onto a small edge, which was about knee height. I then moved to two very small crimps, which were very sore to hold. Apprehensively I slapped for a sloper, a hold that you have to rely on the friction between your hand and the rock, and I hoped it had enough grip on it for me to be able to hold on to. I caught it horridly and it held long enough for me to pop for the final move of the crux. Eagerly, I jumped for the colossal jug, like a starved lion viciously pouncing for its weak prey.

By using the edgy jug I could rest enough to complete the climb.
I felt a sense of relief mixed with achievement at this point but I had to remain focused and keep calm to complete the climb.
My body seemed to remember the moves for the top section of the climb, my mind went blank and when I clipped in to the last clip I felt fantastic. My first 7a outside which I had worked hard to red-point."

This is the video of the climb.

McGeek Coaching

The next day I had a great session with McGeek. My elbow was a bit sore again and so Neil told me not to do any bouldering for a while and to have a rest over the next few days. We did lots of lead climbing and then Neil showed me how to tie my rope up and he tied me to the pillar in the bouldering room!

YCS Round 1 Stirling

The first round of the YCS was held in Stirling at the Peak Wall. This week I have been to Benmore with my school and had a great time. I really enjoyed gorge walking. My teacher applied ice to my elbow in the morning and at night so it felt much better by Friday, but I had it x-rayed and scanned on the Friday afternoon because if it had been something serious I would not be able to compete today. The doctor decided there was no serious damage but said I probably shouldn't compete and he referred me for physiotherapy. I didn't sleep very well last night but when I woke up I really wanted to compete. I decided I would climb but if I felt my elbow sore at any time I would stop. I made a promise to m mum and I was determined I would do this. The first climb and couple of boulders were fine and my elbow was fine. The second route was only difficult because I had to think all of the time not to stand on the blue holds. The last route looked really hard. I had planned it and I watched everyone in front of me climb and noticed where everyone was coming off. I decided to do it slightly differently. I was really psyched for this climb, the holds were horrible and it involved a lot of moving my weight and core strength. I climbed as well as I could and got to the same place as Angus ( the demonstrator) had got too. I was really pleased with my climb. The last boulder was tricky, involving wedging yourself in the tunnel. I had a great day and came first which was a bonus when at the beginning of the day I hadn't known if I would be able to climb.

BMC Talented Climbers Day Newcastle

The Bosi family gave us a lift down to Newcastle for the BMC Talented Climbers Day. I have had a sore elbow over the past week, but I was hoping it would go away. I don't think the bouldering competition had helped. When we arrived at the wall at Newcastle Ian Dunn talked to us about what was going to happen across the day and then we went to warm up. When we were warming up my elbow felt very sore so I decided to stop. I spoke to my mum and then Ian told me not to climb and not to compete in the YCS 1st round the following Saturday. I was really disappointed. I played some games with my mum for the rest of the day, using one arm, but I couldn't join in with everyone. I was very worried I wouldn't be able to compete in the YCS series this year.

Dundee Bouldering Comp

This year I decided to go in for the Winter Bouldering comps held at Dundee. There were four competitions and the best score out of three counted towards winning. We drove up to Dundee on the Friday after school and once I had finished the 20 boulder problems, we drove straight home so that I wasnt too late for getting up for training the next day. I missed one of the comps but we stayed late for the last one and I won £30. I really enjoyed the problems that were set, they were all very different and it was good fun bouldering at a different wall.

Fun Bouldering Competition

Today was the fun bouldering competition at Ratho. I wasn't sure if I was going to do the comp because I haven't been climbing much but I decided to have a go and enjoy myself. It was really busy and had a good atmosphere in the arena. It was good fun trying out all of the different problems, we had to do 20 problems. Most of them were okay but three of them were more difficult. Although I didn't think I had done well enough to win a prize, I went to the prize giving to cheer for the winners but I was surprised to find I was joint third. I also won a T shirt in the spot prizes. It was a good comp I hope Ratho will organise more fun comps.

Session with Kirsten

Kirsten and I decided we would have a session training together on Thursday night. We started warming up doing some easy boulders and then tried some harder ones.Unfortunately we couldn't get into the bouldering room because it was being set for the fun comp on Saturday, so we only had the problems in the arena to do. After we had bouldered for a while, we chose two routes to do. We did the purple, and yellow. Kirstens dad bought us hot chocolates and then we did some more bouldering. It as good fun training with Kirsten and we are going to train together again on Tuesday.

Back training with McGeek

My first training session with McGeek was the best one I have ever had, he took me to the cafe and we had hot chocolate and planned what I was to do for my training over the next few months.
I then caught a bug and was off school for the next week, so that was a good start to my training. The following week I started my training programme and I couldn't believe how weak I felt, my hands were sore and my feet were really sore, and everything seemed much harder to climb. I just decided to keep climbing and bouldering although I wasn't really enjoying myself. After climbing all of my back and arm muscles were aching, but after a few sessions it became a little bit easier and I began to feel a bit stronger.
I then had my next session with McGeek, which was a top rope session. I had been doing more leading and so I really enjoyed this for a change. We started on the ripple 6b and then blue 7a and then the yellow 7a+ which I didn't manage to onsight. I then did the red 6b+ lead on the tower. I really enjoyed this session and felt more confident having done these climbs.